Today is all steamy, with tours across 3 geo thermal estates in the plan. After a nice hotel breakfast on a rainy morning, we ventured on a 30 mins drive to Wai-o-Tapu, the geothermal wonderland. It was a beautiful drive laced with tall fir trees on either side of the Thermal Explorer highway. I was amazed that even the trucks go at the same speed (100kmph) as the other vehicles, so that other traffic is not delayed as most of the lanes are one way each side, with hardly any passing opportunities for several km. There are nice passing lanes in some stretches so I slowly figured out how to use them effectively as the day progressed. A few times I was overly eager and tried to pass during stretches of broken white lines but had to abort due to oncoming traffic. A couple were heart in mouth moments, as I realised that the car doesn't want to lose speed that quickly when moving at 100kmph in the rain.
We reached Wai-o-Tapu just in time for the Lady Knox geyser presentation. People were standing in coats and umbrellas awaiting the 10.15am geyser spurt. An eager Indian family moved to a prime spot just a couple of minutes before, obstructing the views of others behind, drawing moans and disappointed muttering. They withdrew quickly, but this showed how the Kiwis express disappointment - by muttering almost under their breath! The politeness on this part of the world is shocking! Our doubts on how the geyser spewed daily at the same time were dispelled soon enough, when the presenter mentioned that the geyser spews naturally once every 24-48 hours and that they proceeded to add some silica stimulant to get it going on time! It barely lasted a minute, so it was a bit of a damp squib start to the day!
We then went into the Wai-o-Tapu park, which felt like an environment literally straight out of this world! The blend of yellow and red and white caused by the sulphur compounds made up the majority of the landscape. The active geothermal wonderland definitely lived upto its name. From collapsed craters to the bubbling mud pools to the terraces formed by the solidification, we walked our way past in wonder and awe. A strong smell of sulphur, arsenic, gold and silver mixed in those volcanic emissions, and the fog created by the biggest hot water pool in the southern hemisphere (Champagne pool) - There are no words to describe the smell and feeling in that environment. The park itself is made up of 3 walks offering glorious views of the geothermal activities going on in the caldera. The fertile laandscape surrounding the caldera creates a beautiful contrast that speaks about the creative power of volcanic eruptions. Wai-o-Tapu definitely left us with a lasting impression, unlike anything we have ever seen!
We had lunch at a quaint cafe admiring the landscape one last time before riding back to our next stop - Whakerewarewa Maori village. This guided tour offered us an opportunity to get up and close to the Maori culture and way of living. The Maori guide was so passionate and proud of their culture and it showed through every step of the way. The tour was 1.5 hours, which took us through how the Maoris live their daily lives, cook, bathe, their beliefs, their culture and their tradition. We were treated to a freshly steamed corn from their hot water pool, which was wonderful, probably the freshest and softest corn I have ever tasted. The Maori life is intertwined with nature which provides everything for them. Their focus on sustainability, care and nurture of nature is second to none.
Making up 17% of the New Zealand population of about 5.5 million, I feel the Maoris are indeed one of the primary reasons why NZ is the way it is, and very different from the rest of the colonised world. People have embraced diversity from the get go for the mutual benefit of all, there is warmth and kindness and sharing nature in everything people do here, which is truly heart warming. There is sadness when they talk about how their lands were taken and lakes drained to build roads, how the commercial development of Rotorua led to the draining of ground water tables by hotels and businesses leading to loss of most geysers, how the industrial waste contaminated their only source of cold water and marine food. However, they quickly put a positive spin on it, and focus on the way forward and strategic steps they are taking as a community to make their case heard and mistakes addressed. There is genuine care and concern, and no bitterness in the way they reminisce. On the other hand, they give due regard to the early British colonisers who positively influenced them and their lives. In my limited life, I have never come across such a wonderful partnership between two cultures that have focused on the positives to take the whole nation forward as I have seen in NZ. No wonder everyone loves the Kiwis second only to their own nation. If only the whole world followed the Kiwi way, it would be a much much better place to be!

















